Onions are the foundation of so many dishes – but they can also be the centrepiece. Peel off the outer skin, cut a cross right to the root, stuff with thyme and a peeled garlic clove. Drizzle with oil and balsamic and roast at 200°C/ Gas 6 for about 45 mins, until tender.

Or finely slice and sweat with a little olive oil for 45 mins, until soft. Then spread thickly on a sheet of shortcrust pastry with a scattering of anchovies and olives before baking for 20 mins for pissaladière (a bit like pizza).